PART ONE / TIMES SQUARE

New York City

We spend two nights in the heart of Manhattan and take
in a food tour through Chinatown while braving arctic conditions.

It’s late January and Caroline is celebrating a birthday. With an arctic blast looming, Marlowe and I decided it was the perfect time to celebrate another frigid birthday adventure…this time with a quick jaunt to NYC . It's been a solid decade since Caroline and I navigated the city together, and for Marlowe, it's her NYC debut.

Ditching the chaos of air travel, we hopped on a train from Boston to NYC, despite the jaw-dropping price tag. I could've funded three flights with what our business class tickets cost, but the comfort of train travel is, as they say, priceless. Penn Station welcomed us, and we decided to soak in the city vibes with a leisurely 20-block stroll to our hotel. First order of business: replacing the lone pair of jeans I managed to shred after proudly boasting about my light packing skills.

After checking in to the Kimpton Theta Hotel, a cozy spot tucked a block or two away from from the vibrant chaos of Times Square and the entrance to Hell's Kitchen, we ventured out in search of jeans. As we approached the neon lights, we found ourselves directly in front of a Krispy Kreme. Now, our family isn’t big on donuts, but Marlowe hadn't experienced the magic of a "hot off the line" original glazed donut. That was an experience I couldn’t let her ignore.

Reluctantly, Marlowe agreed to try one.
A bite later, she was in love.

In my quest for jeans, Superdry beckoned. The window display screamed "Not your style," but deep within the store, we unearthed some surprisingly tasteful and well-made items. Superdry may have just snagged themselves a new follower.

Now proudly wearing my new jeans, we refuel and enjoy the hotel's free wine happy hour (a guest favorite), before making way to dinner at PRINT. Duck, lamb, wild boar ragu, and a decadent chocolate soufflé graced our plates in this restaurant that sadly bids farewell.

On our way back, I snagged a bottle of ludicrously priced wine. A few glasses later we called it a night and fell asleep to the sounds of passing cars and sirens in the night.

No matter the time, there is always something beautiful to capture in Times Square / Shot with Panasonic GX9

PART TWO / DISCOVERING CHINATOWN

Eating Our Way Through a History Lesson in Chinatown.

Noodles, dumplings, soup, dumplings, sponge cake and more dumplings!

When exploring a new city, our go-to ritual is checking if Culinary Backstreets has a tour. The good news – they offered a Chinatown tour. The bad news – it was fully booked. With a reluctant sigh, I crossed my fingers, joined the waitlist, and opted for a different food tour. The day arrived, and alas, the waitlist remained silent. Undeterred, we embarked on a food odyssey touted as the grand champion of Chinatown pit stops.

Our guide, Robert, a Chinese American with roots in NYC, infused the tour with his infectious knowledge and enthusiasm about the history of Chinatown and its food. Over the next 4 hours, we braved the unusually brutal cold, delving into five restaurants that weren't your typical tourist traps. Forget curb appeal and glossy interiors (except for Mrs. Fish, the eccentric outlier); these joints were all about the food.

First up was Peanut Butter Noddles at Shu Jiao Fuzhou Cuisine where
Marlowe impressed the other tour guests with her chop stick skills.

Our next stop took us to a cozy little spot called Spicy Village. With what seemed like an endless supply of soup dumplings Robert taught us about the traditional way of eating them (as he was taught by his parents). Now, I’ve even more soup dumplings in my life than I can count but I had never heard of this technique.

Step 1. Pick up your dumpling with your chopsticks and place them in the spoon.

Step 2. Bite off a tiny hole into the top of the dumpling.

Step 3. Pour a little black vinegar and chili garlic oil into the hole.

Step 4. Eat the dumpling and enjoy.

Needless to say, the dumplings were pretty spectacular and I have a new method for eating them.

Our favorite dumpling bite of the day took place in a hidden gem, tucked away on the bottom floor of a shopping center that's basically a ghost town. I mean, who'd expect culinary magic in a place where even tumbleweeds would hesitate to roll? But that's the magic of a food tour—you venture into the unknown and feast where the locals keep their culinary secrets, not where Trip Advisor suggests.

The other star of the day was the Fish Malatang from Mrs. Fish Restaurant. It was simply sensational and such a warm respite from the sub freezing temperatures. Who knew a fish dish could be the winter hero we never knew we needed?

Learn more about Vietnam.